Winter is the quiet season in Kyrgyzstan. The herds are down from the high pastures, the trekking crowds are gone, and the Tian Shan is white from top to bottom. That doesn’t mean there is nothing to do. These are ten things worth doing in Kyrgyzstan between December and March, from skiing in Karakol to watching an eagle hunter at work. For weather, snow and temperatures, see our Kyrgyzstan in winter guide.
Karakol, at the eastern end of Lake Issyk-Kul, has the best-known ski resort in the country, with runs through fir forests on slopes between about 2,300 and 3,040 metres. The season usually runs from November to April, depending on the snow. It is a good place to try skiing for the first time: lessons for beginners are easy to arrange, and the prices are a fraction of what you pay in the Alps.
After a cold day, the best plan in Kyrgyzstan is hot water. There are hot springs around Karakol, and up the Arashan valley, above the village of Ak-Suu, Altyn-Arashan has hot pools in the middle of a pine forest. In winter, getting to Altyn-Arashan means several hours on foot, on snowshoes or on touring skis, so it is for people who enjoy a proper walk in the snow.
Horses are still how many people get around in rural Kyrgyzstan, and winter doesn’t stop them. In the Chon-Kemin valley, east of Bishkek, you can ride for two or three hours at an easy pace along the river. You don’t need any experience: Kyrgyz horses are used to the snow and set their own rhythm.
Hunting with golden eagles is one of the oldest traditions in Central Asia, and winter is its season, when the foxes have their thickest fur and their tracks show in the snow. Around Bokonbaevo, on the south shore of Issyk-Kul, local hunters show how they work with their eagles. Read more in our article on the eagle hunters of Kyrgyzstan.
The yurt is the home of Kyrgyz nomads, and its crown, the tunduk, is even on the national flag. In Bokonbaevo there are workshops where you see how a yurt goes up, piece by piece, and yurt camps where you can spend the night. Inside, with the stove lit, it is warmer than you would think.
The south shore of Issyk-Kul is red sandstone country. Jeti-Oguz, the Seven Bulls, is a line of red rocks near Karakol, and Skazka, the “fairy tale” canyon, has shapes carved by wind and water. With snow on the ground, the colours look even stronger.
Issyk-Kul, at 1,607 metres, is the second-largest mountain lake in the world after Titicaca. Its water is slightly salty, so it almost never freezes, even with snowy peaks all around. A walk along the shore on a clear winter day, with the Tian Shan on the other side, is one of the best views in the country.
Some of the high passes close in winter, but others stay open and are an experience in themselves. On our tour we climb the Chon-Ashuu pass, at about 3,850 metres, and drop down to Ichke-Jergez, a small village where we spend the night with a local family. Driving in the mountains in winter is for local drivers with 4x4s, not for a rental car.
Ala-Archa National Park is about 40 kilometres from Bishkek, so it is the easiest way to get into the mountains if you only have a day. In winter the gorge is covered in snow and you can walk along the valley floor among the junipers that give the park its name. Near Bishkek there are also small ski areas, such as Chunkurchak, about an hour from the city.
Winter is a good time for Kyrgyz food, which is made for the cold: lagman (hand-pulled noodles), beshbarmak, the national dish of meat and noodles, and endless cups of tea with bread. Osh Bazaar, the big market in Bishkek, is open all year and is worth a morning. To warm up, try a banya, the local sauna.
Not everything is possible in winter. Song-Kul, the famous high lake at over 3,000 metres, is frozen and difficult to reach, and some mountain roads and passes close after heavy snow. Public transport runs between the main towns, but not on a fixed schedule. For anything in the mountains, go with a local driver or a guided trip.
Our Kyrgyzstan Winter Tour puts several of these plans into seven days: horse riding in Chon-Kemin, skiing and hot springs in Karakol, the Chon-Ashuu pass and a night with a family, the red canyons, a yurt workshop and an eagle hunter. Transport, accommodation, meals and a guide are included.
Is Kyrgyzstan good for a winter holiday?
Yes, if you like snow, mountains and quiet. You can ski in Karakol, soak in hot springs, ride horses, watch eagle hunters and stay with local families, with very few other travellers around.
Can beginners ski in Karakol?
Yes. Karakol has slopes for beginners, and lessons are easy to arrange. On our winter tour the ski day starts with a beginner lesson.
Can you visit Song-Kul in winter?
It is very difficult. Song-Kul is above 3,000 metres, it freezes completely and access depends on the snow, so it is not on most winter itineraries.
Do I need a guide in winter?
For the mountains, it is strongly recommended. Some passes close, roads can be icy and transport is irregular, so a local driver or a guided trip makes everything easier.
More on the season in our Kyrgyzstan in winter guide.